Surprisingly Colorful

Some of the most frequent questions I received while working at a Visitors' Center were about the flora of the state. A lot of people didn't expect Alaska to be so full of colorful plant varieties. In truth, we can support a wide range of plant life and there are plenty of wildflowers across the state. We even have problems with invasive plant species taking over critical habitat areas and killing the native plants which are important to the wildlife. A large part of this problem is from the seed mixtures construction companies use along highways when re-seeding new road sections. Another part of the problem are the large "box" stores we have up here now. In the summer, these stores get shipments of plants which aren't native, but do quite well in our climate. The birds end up spreading seeds along riverbanks, which carry the plant material downstream and eventually we end up with important waterways being overrun by plants which aren't great for our wildlife or native plant life. It's sad to see less and less of our beautiful fireweed or lupine along the roads.

Alaskans tend to get pretty excited when presented with a new plant choice. Even I filled my garden with non-native plants at one time. Alaska is behind the times with a lot of things, and one of the biggest things is shopping. When I was a kid, my family had to drive into Anchorage for shopping. Once a month, we'd unwillingly pile in the car for the long ride to the "big" city. We got almost all of our food, clothes and essentials from Anchorage. Now, I get into Anchorage once every year or two, if I must. Suddenly, big box stores began popping up in Anchorage, and then closer to home. It was a big deal to finally be able to shop at these places. New merchandise and a wider variety of choices was a thrill to many Alaskans. I've heard people scream with excitement when hearing we'll be getting a new restaurant or store chain. Most people living here are not born and bred Alaskans like I am. They are transplants from states like California, Texas and Maryland. Those are the top three states from which "Alaskans" now hail. My parents came from Maryland before I was born, thank goodness, but I met my husband there. After getting married, it didn't take much to convince him we needed to live in Alaska, and he's never gone back. Along with many of these "transplants" come their desires for a bit of "home." A store or restaurant which they may have frequented in their home state is like getting a piece of home back.

Unfortunately, not all of what these stores bring from other states is good for our own beautiful and wild land. A person sees a cherry tree and they don't just see a plant, they see a part of their past. Nostalgia sells in Alaska. Extremely well. Gardens become full of plants which grew in a person's home state. While trying to re-create the past, people are unwittingly destroying Alaska's present. We need more people to start appreciating what Alaska has to offer. There are plenty of beautiful native plant species, but the popular big stores don't sell them. It has become an epidemic and the struggle to keep invasive plants under control is getting harder. Soon, all of the flowers a visitor may see on the roadside will no longer be Alaskan wildflowers. I have become very interested in documenting Alaska's wildflowers with photography. When I started taking pictures of flowers, it was a way to identify Alaska's plants. Now it may be the only way to preserve them.

Some of the beautiful wildflowers I've come across during camping trips around the state.
Names and descriptions of many wildflowers can be seen on my Flickr page here.

Before Booking

Making the trip to Alaska is a big deal. The cost is considerable and it's very, very important to do your research before booking anything. There are different options available for everyone, whether you have a lot of money or a little. A little planning and internet digging can save you a lot of time, money and frustration so you can get the vacation you want.

The Whole Package

Those who want to sit back and relax while enjoying some of Alaska's most thrilling sights usually opt for the cruise. There are cruises that depart from Washington state and make their way up the Inside Passage, finally landing in the small town of Seward, Alaska. From Seward, it's possible to continue to Anchorage by way of the Alaska Railroad, an incredibly scenic journey around more glaciers and wildlife. The cost of the trip can be more expensive when booking during peak season rates, which are mid June through July. If you want to really go all out, keep riding the train up to Denali or even Fairbanks. You can book a couple of nights in Denali and take a bus ride into the park for the day. Lodging can be booked either at one of the lodges at the end of the Denali Park Road or just outside the Park at one of the hotels. Expect pricey lodging, especially during peak season in Denali. The cheaper the lodging, the quicker it's going to fill up, so if you are on a budget it's important to plan at least a year in advance. If you are booking a hotel outside of the park and have taken the train, find a hotel that offers shuttle service to avoid a long walk. "The Whole Package" for a couple could cost $5000 to $7000 or more, depending on the time of year and lodging choices. This would also (hopefully) include airfare back home.

The Budget Cruise Package

A lot of people are quite thrilled with just a cruise from Vancouver to Seward, and then flying home out of Anchorage. Hertz car rental is the only major rental agency available out of Seward, catering to cruise-goers when they reach the end of the line. Car rentals aren't cheap in Alaska and may cost $100 or more a day. If you go with a rental, you could take your time in Seward and explore the area, maybe take a walk to Exit Glacier if you didn't get enough of them on your cruise. Exit Glacier is very accessible with a nice trail and the ability to get up close and personal to the mammoth, moving ice river. If you're staying the night, book your hotel early. There isn't much available in Seward for accommodations and if you wait too long, you'll spend a lot for a room. You can also do this trip backwards. Cheaper fares are in May and late August or very early September. Our tourism season starts around May 15th and ends around September 15th. Expect to see snow in more areas if you book early or late in the season.

Exit Glacier outside of Seward

Going Independent

If you're doing all the planning yourself, make sure you read reviews about every place you book. It's nice to have a company do it all for you, but it can be more expensive or even a scam. You are vulnerable when booking online and there are people out there who are all too willing to take your money and run. Fake companies pretend to be selling you a vacation package, only to disappear from the web after receiving your money. Other people buy up reservations a year or more in advance from tourism hotspots like Brooks Falls. They may sell these reservations along with airfare to Katmai National Park for a hefty sum. This is another major reason to book your reservations early!

Those who want to be really independent may want to rent a motorhome and save on hotels. You'll pay for gas and mileage, so make sure you're actually saving money, especially when getting from point A to point B in Alaska can mean hundreds of miles. Also consider the fact that most rental agencies don't allow travel on gravel roads. This limits where you may venture. There are some people out there who privately rent their own personal motorhomes to visitors. You can check Craigslist or Alaskalist for this option. Something that my family did quite often when I was a kid was to fly from Alaska to Maryland and buy a used motorhome. It gave us transportation and a place to sleep and then we drove it back to Alaska and sold it. If you're planning on staying for a month or more, it's certainly an option. You can leave the motorhome behind at a used car lot for them to sell for you, or drive it back home.

Sampling the Fare

It's fun to plan activities that give you an inside look at Alaska life and provide an array of entertainment. Spend a day or two in Anchorage and explore the Anchorage Museum and the Alaska Native Heritage Center. This year the museum is displaying an exhibit on the 1964 quake and you can also visit Earthquake Park for an informative stroll through an area hit hard by the earthquake. Take a ride down to Portage Glacier and stop at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center to see animals you may miss on your journey. A trip to Whittier is a hop, skip and a toll away from Portage. Its access is by way of Alaska's only tolled road section, a tunnel which now accommodates vehicles. It was formerly a town only accessible by train. From Whittier you can take a day cruise and see the marine life without driving all the way to Seward. There are many fishing hotspots easily found if you want to try your luck catching salmon, but check all the regulations before casting a line.

Rent a cabin in the wilderness. Cabins can be anything from sparse and rustic to grand and luxurious. There are basic Park Service cabins for the adventurous and they are cheap if you manage to get a reservation. A lot of these cabins require a hike or a boat ride, but there are a few that are easy to reach. You could explore a glacier in whatever way suits you. Matanuska Glacier is located 100 miles north of Anchorage and offers glacier viewing or glacier treks with a local company. Access to the glacier is through a private entrance and a fee is required. If you came for a thrill, check out the rafting on the Matanuska River or a Zipline ride. There are a few lodging options in the area, including cabins.

Matanuska Glacier as seen from campground

If you don't have the time to drive all the way to Denali National Park, drive up to a small town called Willow or one of the state's viewpoints of the monster mountain. From Anchorage the park is 237 miles, Willow (milepost 69 of the Parks Highway) is 81 mi. away and the state viewpoints begin appearing at Milepost 135 on the Parks Highway. On a clear day you can even see the mountain from Anchorage if you want a glimpse without the longer drive. Earthquake Park can provide one of the glimpses among others in Alaska's largest city. If you want to explore a little more and are able to drive on gravel, take Petersville Road at mile 114.9 of the Parks Highway. It offers spectacular views and a chance to see moose or even bears. Remember that you will only see the mountain if it is clear and sunny. You may have more luck in the morning if the mountain is in a good mood and not making its own storm systems. There are a few dog kennels along the Parks Highway that offer a chance to ride a dogsled and even meet an Iditarod musher.

A slightly shrouded Denali looms in the distance as seen from Willow

If you arrive during the last week of August or the first week of September you can spend a day exploring the Alaska State Fairgrounds and see what the long daylight hours do to our vegetables after the summer growing season. This is where gardeners from all over the state bring their giant veggies to compete for a chance at a Guinness World Record. There are a number of Alaskans who hold world record titles. The fairgrounds are located in Palmer, an hour's drive north of Anchorage.

Roughing It

Alaska is a beautiful place to hike or bike, though it's not exactly easy. I don't consider Alaska to be biker-friendly. Personally, I would love to see more bike paths along the highways and make it safer for people who want that option. There are many areas that pose dangers to bikers or hikers along the road systems. A lot of road sections are quite narrow and winding and offer a biker no protection from passing vehicles. There are also very few hostels for people who are keeping things cheap. The best option for roughing it is to bring a tent. Campgrounds aren't always necessary since there are many places along the highways where other campers have left their marks. You can usually spot a campfire ring of rocks marking a decent place to pitch your tent for free. It might be worth paying a bit of money to take a bus or train to Denali National Park and hiking or biking off the well-traveled road system. There's even a shuttle van and bus that will take you into Wrangell St.-Elias National Park where you can explore Kennicott Mine and Glacier and venture into a wilderness still largely untouched. A bus will take you from Anchorage to Glennallen and a shuttle van will transport you from Glennallen to McCarthy and Kennicott.

A typical campground offers a fire ring, picnic table and outhouse.
The price is usually $12- $15 a night.

If you can get a ride up to the Denali Highway, a supreme scenic journey can be found by crossing from Cantwell to Paxson or vice-versa. Cantwell is on the Parks Highway and Paxson is on the Richardson Highway. Late June to late July is a better time of year for traveling the tundra to avoid the cold winds and snow. Denali Highway is a mostly gravel, 134 mile long road that connects two of the state's major highways. It varies from lowlands to high tundra and is home to abundant wildlife.

A campground along Denali Highway near Paxson.
The small brown building with the green roof is the outhouse facility.

There is so much to see in Alaska and so many ways to see it. The scale of wilderness is hard to fathom unless you see it in person. A common mistake among visitors is their inability to grasp the distances between destinations until they arrive. They also tend to believe that just because they plan on staying in a town there will be lodging available. Always plan ahead for accommodations and read the reviews. Just because a room is $100 a night, it doesn't mean it's comfortable or clean. This is a state where many people still have outhouses and no running water or electricity, so the standard of what makes acceptable sleeping quarters can be a bit dodgy. If you expect a good night's sleep and comfort, check out what other visitors have reported before booking a bed that feels like sleeping on a board. If you're planning on taking a guided tour, either by bus, train, boat or even a guided fishing trip, keep in mind that your guides may not be from Alaska. Companies tend to hire people from out of state and their knowledge of Alaska is pretty much zero except for the script and info given to them by the employer. Since Alaska has such a high minimum wage, young people from out of state jump at the chance to make a little more money. Alaskans would expect to be paid more, and many residents already have summer jobs. Just because you're paying a lot for a tour doesn't mean you're paying an expert. A good number of fishing guides come from out of state as well, and don't stay informed of the rules and regulations. It will cost you your catch and your guide will be fined if caught unknowingly breaking the rules. All illegally obtained fish are confiscated and donated to charity.

Learn more about the state before your visit and check out these sites for more information about some of the activities mentioned.

Shuttle bus tour into Denali:  
http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/shuttles.htm

Earthquake Park:                       http://www.muni.org/Departments/parks/Pages/Earthquake%20Park.pdf

Wildlife Conservation Center      
http://www.alaskawildlife.org/

Anchorage Museum                    
http://www.anchoragemuseum.org/

Alaska Native Heritage Center    
http://www.alaskanative.net/

Glennallen to McCarthy Shuttle  
http://www.nps.gov/wrst/planyourvisit/mccarthy-road-transport.htm

The End of Hibernation

So I did what a lot of Alaskans do each winter, which is hibernate.  There are plenty of us who live in areas where we hole ourselves in for a long, tough winter and make our appearance with the bears in the spring.  Unfortunately for me, the bears were out of hibernation more last winter than myself.  There were multiple reports over the winter months about bears being seen out and about, looking for food. From Juneau to Denali, grizzlies and black bears were skulking around, possibly rumbling tummies called them out of their holes. It's not too uncommon, but this last winter was certainly an unusual one for Alaskan standards. 

Unseasonably warm weather lead to green grass making a surprise appearance around my home in January. Very little snow in most areas and rain in Fairbanks later in the season than ever recorded before. Massive avalanches closed the only roadway into the town of Valdez during one warm night of wet snow and rainfall. The avalanche blocked a narrow section of a canyon just outside of the town known for being the last stop of the Alyeska Pipeline and site of the Exxon Valdez oil spill. A river which normally has a very low flow during winter was flowing much higher than normal due to warmer temps and a very large lake formed across the highway and filled the canyon, threatening to burst through and flood the town. 

Across the state people noticed big temperature fluctuations and a lot less snow.  A winter in Alaska without snow is depressing enough for me, but I had also missed out on last summer, as I was rebuilding an old camper the whole season. I suffer from depression anyway, and the lack of activity, cabin fever and a vitamin D deficiency caused me to begin having panic attacks this spring, worse than ever before. I went most of the entire winter without the internet, which is why my blog went silent for a while. I wasn't even aware the olympics had taken place. No news or radio and the only contact with the outside world I had were a couple shopping trips for necessities every few months. I've had to deal with some health issues and have been dragging myself to doctor's appointments and also putting some off. I'm trying to combat my depression and cabin fever by finally going on a couple overnight camping trips in our newly remodeled camper, which is enjoyable for me as I love the outdoors of Alaska. 

A fossil hunting trip to Eureka turned up only a lost gold pan (which my husband had just been saying he forgot to bring) and ten unbroken clay pigeons a poor marksman left behind.  The area where I like to hunt for fossils is on the Glenn Highway, south of Glennallen in a small hunting community called Eureka. Strange snow runoff and rainfall decimated some of the fossil-rich rocks in area and mud slides covered the rocks with a thick layer of dirt. Despite the lack of fossils, it was a good hike and of course, my husband and I set up our frisbee golf cage and played a few rounds at our campsite. This has become a tradition with us and we always like to take a picture of the cage sitting in such a picturesque place with gorgeous mountains in the background. 

The Glenn Highway does have some problems with frost heaves, which are marked by simple "temporary" signs which say "BUMPS." I believe a very serious recent accident occurred due to these frost heaves, which seemed obvious when I saw skid marks directly after a less noticeable dip in the road. The driver must have slammed on the breaks and steered away from the front end of a guardrail, causing himself and his passenger to fly off the road. The skid marks made me look up recent accidents in the area when I got back home and saw that 2 young men were involved in the crash and were very blessed to have a doctor and forestry crew drive by the scene in the middle of the night. There is very little traffic in this area at night and their lives were saved by the firefighters putting out their car fire and a medic and passing army doctor giving emergency treatment until more help arrived. 

Further down the road is another dangerous area marked by signs saying "Rock slide next 25 miles". I was behind a liquid nitrogen truck through this area and it was a slightly stressing ride. Alaska roads were typically built by people who were shown the best routes by the natives of the area, and they follow the rivers which were previously the only mode of transportation through the state. A lot of areas are flanked by large cliff walls, carved by the retreating glaciers which feed these rivers. Though the state tries to make improvements when possible, the frost heave areas on the Glenn have not been fixed in years. Road maintenance in the state is very costly and widening areas or straightening dangerous curves can mean cutting straight through mountains. Personally, I think we could benefit from making Alaska's highways toll roads. Frost heaves alone can cause a section of road to be ripped up and rebuilt every year. Commercial truck traffic creates dips and grooves and studded tires wear out the pavement when there's no snow. Graters and plows can scrape up roads and potholes are common. We have some very costly maintenance and a very low population to contribute taxes to the DOT. With the avalanches outside of Valdez, costs were considerable for the snow removal and road closure. Extreme weather contributes greatly to road maintenance and accidents on our mostly narrow 2-lane highways. 

It's not the most biker-friendly state, either. Scenic highways could be enjoyed by bikers and hikers if we actually had bike paths in more areas. It would be nice to have rest stops that aren't just outhouses filled with graffiti, flies and even a wandering bear or two if they have no door. Alaska doesn't have a lot of infrastructure because it is so costly. There are solid rock mountains, glaciers and rapid rivers to negotiate, not to mention animal migration corridors and salmon spawning streams. What roads we do have are constantly being threatened by flooding or course-changing rivers, rock slides and avalanches. It's not easy to travel in this state, but the destination is usually worth it. The state is beautiful and it would be nice to get to where we're going safely and stress-free. There's a lot of work to be done, but it will take time and money. Toll roads could be the answer if Alaskans would approve. 

In the meantime, I will continue trying to relax with my husband on camping trips around the state this summer. One of the areas of the Glenn Highway has sections of old roadway, now straightened and widened. The old, unused roadway made for a nice bike ride for myself and my husband, though I obviously need to start making up for the sedentary lifestyle I had during my hibernation because the ride back uphill was a killer. Another section of the old highway has been taken over by beavers, who have dammed up a tiny creek and flooded the area out, creating for themselves a gigantic, multi-tiered beaver paradise. If we actually managed to begin moving the highways away from waterways, migratory animals could begin traveling the routes and contributing to new growth along the riverbanks. It could very likely solve the erosion issues by having migrating animals naturally trimming and propagating plants as they travel along the river's edge.

For all its faults, the Alaska road system is full of beauty and breathtaking scenery. So far, nothing has kept me from exploring the state on any of these roads, no matter how bad they may be.

Roads Less Traveled

One of my favorite jobs was working with tourists in Alaska.  They were almost always happy since they were on vacation and I got to spend all day telling people "where to go" and "where they could get off."  Win-win.  Though I was pretty young, I took my job seriously.  The people who came to me needed information to make their "once-in-a-lifetime" trip really memorable.  I listened carefully to all feedback and compiled a mental list of destinations which seemed to get the most accolades.  Though I am a fan of most of the state, there are areas which I am not as fond of as others.  I tried never to express my own opinions about areas and instead rely on the previous visitors' reviews.  Some places got reviews like, "nice town" or "cute place" while others got comments such as, "awe-inspiring", "breath-taking" and "jaw-dropping."  Hey, you know it's good when people start hyphenating words because one word doesn't cut it.  Knowing this, I generally pointed people in the direction of the "jaw-dropping"...ness.

Some of the places which received rave reviews were Seward, Prince William Sound, Denali and Katmai.  The most popular vacations included a wildlife cruise in Kenai Fjords and a railcar tour from Seward to Denali.  These tour companies offer many different packages, so most can find one in their budget.  People want the most bang for their buck, and I wasn't going to tell someone to spend their hard-earned money and vacation time on something less than spectacular.  After a brief interview with the customer, I made suggestions based on their time, travel expenses, car rentals and ability to drive long distances.  A lot of people don't realize how long it takes to drive from Anchorage to Denali.  It's about 5 or 6 hours, by the way, depending on how often you need to find a bush to use the bathroom.  

A rest area near Paxson on the Denali Highway.

Did I mention there are very few rest stops on most Alaska Highways? Please bring toilet paper, and please make it the RV kind that disintegrates if you're not going to take it with you.  I usually pass up the "rest stop" bathrooms for the bush.  Spoiler alert- It's an outhouse.  Some offer scenic views and interpretive signs and the bathrooms are maintained by a local business. Some, are not.  Stuff your pocket full of toilet paper and hike up your pant legs.  I've heard that the shortage of nice toilets is due to permafrost and no running water or electricity.  In any case, you've been warned.  

An old outhouse sits in the background at a private hunting and fishing camp on the Denali Highway.  The Alaska Range is lit by a pink sunset to the north. 

Now I will tell you what I like to do.  Drive to the middle of nowhere, set up camp and listen to the silence.  It doesn't mean I don't love the rail tour or wildlife cruises.  Those are awesome, but also full of people, which I dislike... intensely.  One of my favorite drives are the Edgerton Highway and McCarthy Road.  Edgerton is paved and is located south of  Glennallen off  the Richardson Highway.  The paved portion ends 55 miles later in Chitina, where you can dipnet for Copper River salmon.  The paved section is beautiful and I would recommend it to anyone going that way.  

One of the McCarthy Road views.

Most rental car agencies don't allow driving on gravel roads, so continuing past Chitina is a no-no.  If you aren't restricted by this, then drive to McCarthy.  Well, almost to McCarthy.  The rough McCarthy Road ends at a private bridge after 60 miles.  From here, it's a short walk or a short shuttle ride.  Lodges and other businesses offer a shuttle service once you have crossed the bridge on foot.  Kennicott Glacier and Mine are two of the main attractions.  This area goes through the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve.  It's the largest, most glaciated park in the U.S.  Over 13 million acres and an active volcano make it one of the most unexplored places out there.  Road construction in 2012 apparently greatly improved road conditions and it's fine for passenger cars. 

Another great drive if you have the time or an RV is what I call "The Loop." Anchorage to Fairbanks via the Glenn and Parks Highways, then south on the Richardson to Valdez.  From Valdez, backtrack north to Glennallen and take the Glenn Highway back to Anchorage.   Variations or additions to this trip could include Seward, Kenai or Homer.  The last three locations are not what I consider to be "the road less traveled."  

A fantastic view outside of Fairbanks on the Parks Highway.

Fairbanks offers gold mines, hot springs and the North Pole is nearby.  This is the home of Santa Claus and many people decide to make the trip to Fairbanks just because they have a grandchild or child who will squeal with delight when they receive a personalized letter from Santa himself, postmarked at The Santa Claus House in North Pole.  There are even a few reindeer to feed.  If you aren't particularly interested in driving all the way to Fairbanks for these reasons, take the Denali Highway (gravel road) from Cantwell on the Parks Highway, east to Paxson on the Richardson Highway.

Santa Claus House in North Pole

  

If you want to skip a crowded bus trip but still want a picture of  20,320' Denali, take Petersville Road, south of Denali on the Parks Highway.  It offers beautiful views, though the broad expanses aren't as impressive as taking the ride into the park.  I don't consider Petersville Road to be a replacement for a ride into the park.  I genuinely love Denali National Park and the wildlife is amazing as well as the views.  Just remember that the mountain makes its own weather and your chances of seeing it from anywhere are fairly low.  You won't know until you get there, so plan accordingly.  The best viewing month is probably June.  If you just want to see wildlife, opt for the park bus ride.  The park road is called "Denali Road" or "Denali Park Road" and is not the same as Denali Highway. 

Denali from Petersville Road

A road I have yet to drive is the Dalton Highway, or "Haul Road."  This road is mainly frequented by truckers going to Prudhoe Bay.  I plan on doing this when I have the time and money, hopefully sometime in the next couple summers.  I've always wanted to spend summer solstice above the Arctic Circle.  This is a daunting trip with some rough roadway and close to 24 hours of driving if you are coming from Anchorage.  The most extreme trip I can think of would be driving all these routes.  It gives me goose bumps just thinking about it.  I'll leave you to ponder the distances of some of these trips.

Anchorage to Fairbanks-  360 miles

Fairbanks to Valdez-  365 miles

Valdez to Glennallen-  120 miles

Glennallen to Anchorage-  180 miles.  

Anchorage to Seward-  128 miles

Anchorage to Deadhorse-  852 miles