Before Booking

Making the trip to Alaska is a big deal. The cost is considerable and it's very, very important to do your research before booking anything. There are different options available for everyone, whether you have a lot of money or a little. A little planning and internet digging can save you a lot of time, money and frustration so you can get the vacation you want.

The Whole Package

Those who want to sit back and relax while enjoying some of Alaska's most thrilling sights usually opt for the cruise. There are cruises that depart from Washington state and make their way up the Inside Passage, finally landing in the small town of Seward, Alaska. From Seward, it's possible to continue to Anchorage by way of the Alaska Railroad, an incredibly scenic journey around more glaciers and wildlife. The cost of the trip can be more expensive when booking during peak season rates, which are mid June through July. If you want to really go all out, keep riding the train up to Denali or even Fairbanks. You can book a couple of nights in Denali and take a bus ride into the park for the day. Lodging can be booked either at one of the lodges at the end of the Denali Park Road or just outside the Park at one of the hotels. Expect pricey lodging, especially during peak season in Denali. The cheaper the lodging, the quicker it's going to fill up, so if you are on a budget it's important to plan at least a year in advance. If you are booking a hotel outside of the park and have taken the train, find a hotel that offers shuttle service to avoid a long walk. "The Whole Package" for a couple could cost $5000 to $7000 or more, depending on the time of year and lodging choices. This would also (hopefully) include airfare back home.

The Budget Cruise Package

A lot of people are quite thrilled with just a cruise from Vancouver to Seward, and then flying home out of Anchorage. Hertz car rental is the only major rental agency available out of Seward, catering to cruise-goers when they reach the end of the line. Car rentals aren't cheap in Alaska and may cost $100 or more a day. If you go with a rental, you could take your time in Seward and explore the area, maybe take a walk to Exit Glacier if you didn't get enough of them on your cruise. Exit Glacier is very accessible with a nice trail and the ability to get up close and personal to the mammoth, moving ice river. If you're staying the night, book your hotel early. There isn't much available in Seward for accommodations and if you wait too long, you'll spend a lot for a room. You can also do this trip backwards. Cheaper fares are in May and late August or very early September. Our tourism season starts around May 15th and ends around September 15th. Expect to see snow in more areas if you book early or late in the season.

Exit Glacier outside of Seward

Going Independent

If you're doing all the planning yourself, make sure you read reviews about every place you book. It's nice to have a company do it all for you, but it can be more expensive or even a scam. You are vulnerable when booking online and there are people out there who are all too willing to take your money and run. Fake companies pretend to be selling you a vacation package, only to disappear from the web after receiving your money. Other people buy up reservations a year or more in advance from tourism hotspots like Brooks Falls. They may sell these reservations along with airfare to Katmai National Park for a hefty sum. This is another major reason to book your reservations early!

Those who want to be really independent may want to rent a motorhome and save on hotels. You'll pay for gas and mileage, so make sure you're actually saving money, especially when getting from point A to point B in Alaska can mean hundreds of miles. Also consider the fact that most rental agencies don't allow travel on gravel roads. This limits where you may venture. There are some people out there who privately rent their own personal motorhomes to visitors. You can check Craigslist or Alaskalist for this option. Something that my family did quite often when I was a kid was to fly from Alaska to Maryland and buy a used motorhome. It gave us transportation and a place to sleep and then we drove it back to Alaska and sold it. If you're planning on staying for a month or more, it's certainly an option. You can leave the motorhome behind at a used car lot for them to sell for you, or drive it back home.

Sampling the Fare

It's fun to plan activities that give you an inside look at Alaska life and provide an array of entertainment. Spend a day or two in Anchorage and explore the Anchorage Museum and the Alaska Native Heritage Center. This year the museum is displaying an exhibit on the 1964 quake and you can also visit Earthquake Park for an informative stroll through an area hit hard by the earthquake. Take a ride down to Portage Glacier and stop at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center to see animals you may miss on your journey. A trip to Whittier is a hop, skip and a toll away from Portage. Its access is by way of Alaska's only tolled road section, a tunnel which now accommodates vehicles. It was formerly a town only accessible by train. From Whittier you can take a day cruise and see the marine life without driving all the way to Seward. There are many fishing hotspots easily found if you want to try your luck catching salmon, but check all the regulations before casting a line.

Rent a cabin in the wilderness. Cabins can be anything from sparse and rustic to grand and luxurious. There are basic Park Service cabins for the adventurous and they are cheap if you manage to get a reservation. A lot of these cabins require a hike or a boat ride, but there are a few that are easy to reach. You could explore a glacier in whatever way suits you. Matanuska Glacier is located 100 miles north of Anchorage and offers glacier viewing or glacier treks with a local company. Access to the glacier is through a private entrance and a fee is required. If you came for a thrill, check out the rafting on the Matanuska River or a Zipline ride. There are a few lodging options in the area, including cabins.

Matanuska Glacier as seen from campground

If you don't have the time to drive all the way to Denali National Park, drive up to a small town called Willow or one of the state's viewpoints of the monster mountain. From Anchorage the park is 237 miles, Willow (milepost 69 of the Parks Highway) is 81 mi. away and the state viewpoints begin appearing at Milepost 135 on the Parks Highway. On a clear day you can even see the mountain from Anchorage if you want a glimpse without the longer drive. Earthquake Park can provide one of the glimpses among others in Alaska's largest city. If you want to explore a little more and are able to drive on gravel, take Petersville Road at mile 114.9 of the Parks Highway. It offers spectacular views and a chance to see moose or even bears. Remember that you will only see the mountain if it is clear and sunny. You may have more luck in the morning if the mountain is in a good mood and not making its own storm systems. There are a few dog kennels along the Parks Highway that offer a chance to ride a dogsled and even meet an Iditarod musher.

A slightly shrouded Denali looms in the distance as seen from Willow

If you arrive during the last week of August or the first week of September you can spend a day exploring the Alaska State Fairgrounds and see what the long daylight hours do to our vegetables after the summer growing season. This is where gardeners from all over the state bring their giant veggies to compete for a chance at a Guinness World Record. There are a number of Alaskans who hold world record titles. The fairgrounds are located in Palmer, an hour's drive north of Anchorage.

Roughing It

Alaska is a beautiful place to hike or bike, though it's not exactly easy. I don't consider Alaska to be biker-friendly. Personally, I would love to see more bike paths along the highways and make it safer for people who want that option. There are many areas that pose dangers to bikers or hikers along the road systems. A lot of road sections are quite narrow and winding and offer a biker no protection from passing vehicles. There are also very few hostels for people who are keeping things cheap. The best option for roughing it is to bring a tent. Campgrounds aren't always necessary since there are many places along the highways where other campers have left their marks. You can usually spot a campfire ring of rocks marking a decent place to pitch your tent for free. It might be worth paying a bit of money to take a bus or train to Denali National Park and hiking or biking off the well-traveled road system. There's even a shuttle van and bus that will take you into Wrangell St.-Elias National Park where you can explore Kennicott Mine and Glacier and venture into a wilderness still largely untouched. A bus will take you from Anchorage to Glennallen and a shuttle van will transport you from Glennallen to McCarthy and Kennicott.

A typical campground offers a fire ring, picnic table and outhouse.
The price is usually $12- $15 a night.

If you can get a ride up to the Denali Highway, a supreme scenic journey can be found by crossing from Cantwell to Paxson or vice-versa. Cantwell is on the Parks Highway and Paxson is on the Richardson Highway. Late June to late July is a better time of year for traveling the tundra to avoid the cold winds and snow. Denali Highway is a mostly gravel, 134 mile long road that connects two of the state's major highways. It varies from lowlands to high tundra and is home to abundant wildlife.

A campground along Denali Highway near Paxson.
The small brown building with the green roof is the outhouse facility.

There is so much to see in Alaska and so many ways to see it. The scale of wilderness is hard to fathom unless you see it in person. A common mistake among visitors is their inability to grasp the distances between destinations until they arrive. They also tend to believe that just because they plan on staying in a town there will be lodging available. Always plan ahead for accommodations and read the reviews. Just because a room is $100 a night, it doesn't mean it's comfortable or clean. This is a state where many people still have outhouses and no running water or electricity, so the standard of what makes acceptable sleeping quarters can be a bit dodgy. If you expect a good night's sleep and comfort, check out what other visitors have reported before booking a bed that feels like sleeping on a board. If you're planning on taking a guided tour, either by bus, train, boat or even a guided fishing trip, keep in mind that your guides may not be from Alaska. Companies tend to hire people from out of state and their knowledge of Alaska is pretty much zero except for the script and info given to them by the employer. Since Alaska has such a high minimum wage, young people from out of state jump at the chance to make a little more money. Alaskans would expect to be paid more, and many residents already have summer jobs. Just because you're paying a lot for a tour doesn't mean you're paying an expert. A good number of fishing guides come from out of state as well, and don't stay informed of the rules and regulations. It will cost you your catch and your guide will be fined if caught unknowingly breaking the rules. All illegally obtained fish are confiscated and donated to charity.

Learn more about the state before your visit and check out these sites for more information about some of the activities mentioned.

Shuttle bus tour into Denali:  
http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/shuttles.htm

Earthquake Park:                       http://www.muni.org/Departments/parks/Pages/Earthquake%20Park.pdf

Wildlife Conservation Center      
http://www.alaskawildlife.org/

Anchorage Museum                    
http://www.anchoragemuseum.org/

Alaska Native Heritage Center    
http://www.alaskanative.net/

Glennallen to McCarthy Shuttle  
http://www.nps.gov/wrst/planyourvisit/mccarthy-road-transport.htm

The End of Hibernation

So I did what a lot of Alaskans do each winter, which is hibernate.  There are plenty of us who live in areas where we hole ourselves in for a long, tough winter and make our appearance with the bears in the spring.  Unfortunately for me, the bears were out of hibernation more last winter than myself.  There were multiple reports over the winter months about bears being seen out and about, looking for food. From Juneau to Denali, grizzlies and black bears were skulking around, possibly rumbling tummies called them out of their holes. It's not too uncommon, but this last winter was certainly an unusual one for Alaskan standards. 

Unseasonably warm weather lead to green grass making a surprise appearance around my home in January. Very little snow in most areas and rain in Fairbanks later in the season than ever recorded before. Massive avalanches closed the only roadway into the town of Valdez during one warm night of wet snow and rainfall. The avalanche blocked a narrow section of a canyon just outside of the town known for being the last stop of the Alyeska Pipeline and site of the Exxon Valdez oil spill. A river which normally has a very low flow during winter was flowing much higher than normal due to warmer temps and a very large lake formed across the highway and filled the canyon, threatening to burst through and flood the town. 

Across the state people noticed big temperature fluctuations and a lot less snow.  A winter in Alaska without snow is depressing enough for me, but I had also missed out on last summer, as I was rebuilding an old camper the whole season. I suffer from depression anyway, and the lack of activity, cabin fever and a vitamin D deficiency caused me to begin having panic attacks this spring, worse than ever before. I went most of the entire winter without the internet, which is why my blog went silent for a while. I wasn't even aware the olympics had taken place. No news or radio and the only contact with the outside world I had were a couple shopping trips for necessities every few months. I've had to deal with some health issues and have been dragging myself to doctor's appointments and also putting some off. I'm trying to combat my depression and cabin fever by finally going on a couple overnight camping trips in our newly remodeled camper, which is enjoyable for me as I love the outdoors of Alaska. 

A fossil hunting trip to Eureka turned up only a lost gold pan (which my husband had just been saying he forgot to bring) and ten unbroken clay pigeons a poor marksman left behind.  The area where I like to hunt for fossils is on the Glenn Highway, south of Glennallen in a small hunting community called Eureka. Strange snow runoff and rainfall decimated some of the fossil-rich rocks in area and mud slides covered the rocks with a thick layer of dirt. Despite the lack of fossils, it was a good hike and of course, my husband and I set up our frisbee golf cage and played a few rounds at our campsite. This has become a tradition with us and we always like to take a picture of the cage sitting in such a picturesque place with gorgeous mountains in the background. 

The Glenn Highway does have some problems with frost heaves, which are marked by simple "temporary" signs which say "BUMPS." I believe a very serious recent accident occurred due to these frost heaves, which seemed obvious when I saw skid marks directly after a less noticeable dip in the road. The driver must have slammed on the breaks and steered away from the front end of a guardrail, causing himself and his passenger to fly off the road. The skid marks made me look up recent accidents in the area when I got back home and saw that 2 young men were involved in the crash and were very blessed to have a doctor and forestry crew drive by the scene in the middle of the night. There is very little traffic in this area at night and their lives were saved by the firefighters putting out their car fire and a medic and passing army doctor giving emergency treatment until more help arrived. 

Further down the road is another dangerous area marked by signs saying "Rock slide next 25 miles". I was behind a liquid nitrogen truck through this area and it was a slightly stressing ride. Alaska roads were typically built by people who were shown the best routes by the natives of the area, and they follow the rivers which were previously the only mode of transportation through the state. A lot of areas are flanked by large cliff walls, carved by the retreating glaciers which feed these rivers. Though the state tries to make improvements when possible, the frost heave areas on the Glenn have not been fixed in years. Road maintenance in the state is very costly and widening areas or straightening dangerous curves can mean cutting straight through mountains. Personally, I think we could benefit from making Alaska's highways toll roads. Frost heaves alone can cause a section of road to be ripped up and rebuilt every year. Commercial truck traffic creates dips and grooves and studded tires wear out the pavement when there's no snow. Graters and plows can scrape up roads and potholes are common. We have some very costly maintenance and a very low population to contribute taxes to the DOT. With the avalanches outside of Valdez, costs were considerable for the snow removal and road closure. Extreme weather contributes greatly to road maintenance and accidents on our mostly narrow 2-lane highways. 

It's not the most biker-friendly state, either. Scenic highways could be enjoyed by bikers and hikers if we actually had bike paths in more areas. It would be nice to have rest stops that aren't just outhouses filled with graffiti, flies and even a wandering bear or two if they have no door. Alaska doesn't have a lot of infrastructure because it is so costly. There are solid rock mountains, glaciers and rapid rivers to negotiate, not to mention animal migration corridors and salmon spawning streams. What roads we do have are constantly being threatened by flooding or course-changing rivers, rock slides and avalanches. It's not easy to travel in this state, but the destination is usually worth it. The state is beautiful and it would be nice to get to where we're going safely and stress-free. There's a lot of work to be done, but it will take time and money. Toll roads could be the answer if Alaskans would approve. 

In the meantime, I will continue trying to relax with my husband on camping trips around the state this summer. One of the areas of the Glenn Highway has sections of old roadway, now straightened and widened. The old, unused roadway made for a nice bike ride for myself and my husband, though I obviously need to start making up for the sedentary lifestyle I had during my hibernation because the ride back uphill was a killer. Another section of the old highway has been taken over by beavers, who have dammed up a tiny creek and flooded the area out, creating for themselves a gigantic, multi-tiered beaver paradise. If we actually managed to begin moving the highways away from waterways, migratory animals could begin traveling the routes and contributing to new growth along the riverbanks. It could very likely solve the erosion issues by having migrating animals naturally trimming and propagating plants as they travel along the river's edge.

For all its faults, the Alaska road system is full of beauty and breathtaking scenery. So far, nothing has kept me from exploring the state on any of these roads, no matter how bad they may be.

On to Valdez

Continued from previous post: Missing Valdez

After leaving Keystone Canyon it's a short distance to Valdez. The oil pipeline terminal is located at the end of Dayville Road, before entering the town.  The road follows Valdez Harbor and is a great spot for fishing.  There's another waterfall and Solomon Gulch trail to climb if you aren't scared of the bears. Black bears and coastal brown bears love to fish, too.  The trees are usually filled with bald eagles and the air is pierced by their calls.

One of two dozen bald eagles
spotted at one time at Allison Point.

I am finally seeing wildlife recovery in this area after animals disappeared from the Exxon Valdez oil spill in 1989.  I was a small child when it happened, but I understood the gravity of the situation. Several years after the oil cleanup is when my family started spending time in Valdez. Compared to then, I see a lot more wildlife now. The water is full of steller sea lions and sea otters. Brown bears are starting to show up and bring their cubs.  When the fish are running, you can expect to see any or all of these animals together at once.

Solomon Gulch 

A hydroelectric dam is located along Allison Point. A bridge crosses Solomon Gulch, the freshwater destination for spawning salmon. There is a weir located here along with the Solomon Gulch Hatchery, where you can learn about the salmon and watch as they climb a fish ladder.  Fishing is prohibited near the hatchery and weir.  Posted signs and marked posts show where the fishing boundaries lie. You can buy fishing licenses in Valdez at bait shops or the grocery store. There are also services for fish packing and shipping. 

My husband's catch of pink
salmon for the day at Allison Point.

Valdez was originally in a slightly different location before the 1964 earthquake. When the 9.2 momentum magnitude quake hit 45 miles west of Valdez, tons of land slid into the harbor.  Thirty-one people died, most of them being children. Streets and docks were destroyed along with many buildings. The army corps of engineers decided it was necessary to relocate the town to more stable ground. Sixty-two buildings were moved and a new townsite was constructed. You can visit the restored gold rush cemetery that was used between 1898 and 1917. An informational sign can be found just off the Richardson Highway, along the gravel road leading to the cemetery. A visit to the downtown Valdez Museum can offer more information about the earthquake and I've heard it's well worth it. I plan on going as well, just as soon as I stop spending all of my time in Valdez fishing. There is also the Whitney Museum, which has an extensive collection of Native artifacts, located at the Prince William Sound Community College downtown. 

Prince William Sound Community College

The docks are fun to explore and there's usually a salmon and halibut derby running, so anglers crowd the fish cleaning and weigh-in stations for a chance to claim the winning catch.  There is a visitor center at the edge of town, with a nature trail and views of spawning salmon. I have seen black bears crossing the road and trail here on numerous occasions as they come down from the waterfall-streaked mountain and head for the beach. Always be bear-aware around Valdez. 

A costal brown bear subadult eats grass,
patiently awaiting a tide full of salmon.

Though the town is so small, it's big on character and charm. I never find enough time to do everything when I'm there, since I have to plan my schedule around the tides. You can also fish at the dock in town instead of Allison Point. I caught a lot of ling cod there in the past. I could put my 3-hook pixie in the water and seconds later had a fish on each hook.

Valdez Boat Harbor

Whether you go to Valdez for the fishing or the views, you'll have a great time. Make sure to take your time and explore. It's important to also know the history of many Alaskan towns to appreciate the hard work and sacrifice it took to settle in the Last Frontier.  While traveling the Richardson Highway, think about the Athabascan Natives who originally traversed this harsh land, creating the important trails we now use as roadways. Remember the many prospectors who rushed to Alaska seeking riches, only to leave downtrodden and broke, and hopefully with all their fingers and toes. Frostbite was a constant danger to these people crossing glaciers and rivers, but they pressed on like men possessed. The people who struck it rich were the ones who stayed in Valdez. It goes to show that Valdez residents have always recognized a good thing when they see it. After all, they live in what I consider one of the best places on earth.

Another fan of Allison Point, enjoying incoming pink salmon.

Missing Valdez

Every summer I take a trip to Valdez for fishing.  I usually fish for pink salmon in late June or July when they come streaming into Valdez Harbor by the thousands.  Most Alaskans have become picky with their choice of salmon and I've overheard a father telling his son that it wasn't worth casting a line for a pink, so they weren't going to fish.  His son just wanted to fish with his father, and his father was an inconsiderate salmon snob.  I admit that reds or kings are delicious, but if you don't like the taste of your pink salmon, it doesn't mean the fish is bad.  It means you can't cook.  Unfortunately, this year I did not acquire any fresh salmon.  I was at home, rebuilding an old camper.  That's for another blog post.  For now, I will reminisce about previous trips to this beautiful little town.

It's not just the town of Valdez and the fishing which makes this 260 mile trip (one way) worthwhile. The scenery along the way is always lovely.  There are numerous glaciers along the way and lots of wildlife viewing opportunities.  On clear or mild days, you may be lucky enough to see the Wrangell Mountains.  These mountains lie on the east side of the Richardson Highway and include 18,008' Mount St. Elias.  They are part of America's largest national park, the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve.  It is an immense 13.2 million acres, larger than Switzerland.  At Copper Center you can find the Wrangell- St. Elias Visitor Center, which offers exhibits, films, books and ranger programs.  Ahtna Athabascans used the Copper Center area as a winter village for over 5000 years.  The first lodge in the area was built in 1896 for the prospectors traveling the Valdez-Fairbanks trail during the gold rush.

Worthington Glacier seen from Richardson
Highway, looking south.

Another must-see stop is Worthington Glacier at Milepost 334 along the Richardson Highway. The glacier was named after a man who survived being swept down the glacial stream in 1899. He was part of a survey party mapping an ice-free corridor to the interior. There are usually high winds here, so I would suggest putting on those layers and dealing with it. It's only a short walk on a paved path, which is also handicap accessible, to the viewpoints.  

A picture of me, not dealing with the wind
very well at Worthington Glacier.

If you're feeling invigorated, there's a tougher, one-mile moraine trail to see the glacier up close and personal.  Just be careful about how up close and personal you get.  This is still a river of ice and is constantly shifting, even if it looks unmoving.

A tongue of the glacier sits on silt-covered ice and rock.
Waterfalls stream down the sides of the mountain,
where the glacier's upper basin sits at 5,500'. 

The road from this point begins climbing up Thompson Pass, the snowiest place in Alaska.  It winds through a gap in the Chugach Mountain Range and receives about 55 inches of snow a year.  In 1952, there was a record snowfall of 62 inches in one day.  Along this stretch of the Richardson Highway, you will see poles along the road.  These poles are markers to keep people on the roadway during white-out conditions.  

Road markers in Thompson Pass 

Thompson Pass offers a chance to play in snow most of the year.  It offers world-class snowboarding and skiing.  Blueberry Lake is a popular stop and there are plenty of blueberries when they are in season.  Trails can be found around every corner and this corridor was originally used by Native Athabascans.  Their trails were followed by surveyors and prospectors seeking Yukon gold. When the oil pipeline was constructed, this was one of the most challenging spots along the route.  Welding had to take place while hanging from cliffs and only the most experienced and daring welder accepted the Thompson Pass and Worthington Glacier job.

A view of the Lowe River Valley from a Thompson Pass trail.
Watch your Step!

Heading south from Thompson Pass brings you to the Lowe River Valley, which can be flooded during rainy fall weather. The mountains suddenly come together and become a dramatic canyon changing the Lowe River into narrow, rushing whitewater.  The road twists through some of the most beautiful scenery in Alaska.  

Looking north through Keystone Canyon

The Keystone Canyon also has an old gold rush trail to meander called the Goat Trail.  It starts near Bridal Veil Falls and climbs to the top of Horsetail Falls.  There's even an old hand-carved tunnel to explore.  It was abandoned when a competing railroad company arrived and a shoot-out followed. A railroad was never built and instead a "road" was put in its place. 

Bridal Veil Falls, a popular icefall climb in winter.

Horsetail Falls with what appears to be Western Meadowrue flowers,
protected by boulders in the middle of the falls.

The abandoned railroad tunnel,
hand-carved during the gold rush.

Continued on next blog post: On to Valdez

Two Steps Forward and One Step Back

I would like to emphasize the importance of a travel and photo log in Alaska. For instance, had I kept a log during all of my road trips around the state, I would not be spending hours trying to label photographs from six years ago. Or even two years ago.  In an effort to help my husband with his flickr account, I've been uploading hundreds of pictures that have been sitting idle on a hard drive for years. Though I've taken some of the routes we've traveled numerous times, I am finding it difficult to recall which mountain is which in my husband's photos.  I've spent an hour on a hunch and thought for sure I had a glacier labeled correctly.  Then while researching another glacier, I discover I did not in fact label that previous glacier correctly.  I am currently in denial that I won't be able to identify every mountain or glacier in the pictures.

There are always particular mountains or landmarks for which we may stop for pictures on every single trip.  Some of these places are: Matanuska Glacier on the Glenn Highway, Denali viewpoints on the Parks Highway, Willow Lake on the Richardson for the Wrangells, Worthington Glacier and Keystone Canyon waterfalls near Valdez.  Different trips bring different weather and different light. However, there are a lot of other scenic viewpoints that may provide a striking photo op and we are compelled to pull over and snap away.  We may have ignored these viewpoints on all but one trip because the weather obscured the view.  This makes it easy to pass by a mountain fifty times and never see it.  So I can't be blamed for being unable to recall which glacier or mountain peak my husband photographed the one time we saw it unobscured.

Matanuska Glacier in the Fall

Matanuska Glacier in the Summer

I am still trying to figure out the best way to log photos as we take them.  One way that may work for me is to place a bookmark in a book called "The Milepost" and use the bookmark to write a note every time we take a photo. The Milepost is a wonderful resource for anyone driving Alaska.  Every scenic viewpoint and its milepost are listed for every highway, and special sections are included for towns. Most of the time you will know what you are taking a picture of if you are keeping track of your journey in the milepost and making a note when you take the picture.  I'm kicking myself now for not doing this sooner.  I had too much confidence in my knowledge of Alaska mountains and thought I was actually capable of remembering the one time we took a picture of Gulkana Glacier.

I'm also meticulous in my picture identification research and ignore most websites unless they are official.  I read a lot of reports available online from the USGS or NPS and also any leads a chamber of commerce website may provide.  At one point I read through twenty pages of a Wrangell-St. Elias glacier survey that included the surveys from the late 1800's to 2000 just so I could ID one glacier.  I use google earth to check routes and viewpoints but I don't use publicly posted photos.  These are usually mislabeled or misplaced. It's amazing how many people visit Alaska and think they got a picture of Denali.  Newsflash- you didn't. You didn't even see it, let alone get a picture. I've sat at Denali viewpoints on cloudy days and amused myself by eavesdropping on tourists. I watch them as they snap their pictures and say they think they got a shot of McKinley.  A little tip for people who think they are taking photos of Denali: If you "think" it's Denali, it isn't.  There is no comparison.  It's stunning, breathtaking and magnificent.  The only thing out of your mouth when you really truly see McKinley is a gasp of wonder.

Wrangell Mountain viewpoint at Willow Lake.  Only 12.011' Mt. Drum is visible.  Mt. Sanford and Mt. Wrangell have clouded themselves over.

Wrangell Mountain viewpoint at Willow Lake.  A large cloud grows upwards as 16,237' Mt. Sanford and 14,163' Mt. Wrangell obscure the entire mountain range with their own weather system on a clear day. 

Many people perhaps don't realize their photos of the state are being used for identification methods by others online.  It's important to be accurate for this reason when posting online.  We may be able to expand our knowledge of the state if photographers accurately document their pictures.  And for goodness' sake, please stop labeling "little" mountains as Denali.  Especially when the mountain in question is part of an entirely different mountain range.  I've had someone ask me if they are looking at Denali (Alaska Range) while standing directly in front of an informational sign that says "Wrangell Mountains."  The only mountain in this range which was visible at the time was 12,011' Mt. Drum.

Roads Less Traveled

One of my favorite jobs was working with tourists in Alaska.  They were almost always happy since they were on vacation and I got to spend all day telling people "where to go" and "where they could get off."  Win-win.  Though I was pretty young, I took my job seriously.  The people who came to me needed information to make their "once-in-a-lifetime" trip really memorable.  I listened carefully to all feedback and compiled a mental list of destinations which seemed to get the most accolades.  Though I am a fan of most of the state, there are areas which I am not as fond of as others.  I tried never to express my own opinions about areas and instead rely on the previous visitors' reviews.  Some places got reviews like, "nice town" or "cute place" while others got comments such as, "awe-inspiring", "breath-taking" and "jaw-dropping."  Hey, you know it's good when people start hyphenating words because one word doesn't cut it.  Knowing this, I generally pointed people in the direction of the "jaw-dropping"...ness.

Some of the places which received rave reviews were Seward, Prince William Sound, Denali and Katmai.  The most popular vacations included a wildlife cruise in Kenai Fjords and a railcar tour from Seward to Denali.  These tour companies offer many different packages, so most can find one in their budget.  People want the most bang for their buck, and I wasn't going to tell someone to spend their hard-earned money and vacation time on something less than spectacular.  After a brief interview with the customer, I made suggestions based on their time, travel expenses, car rentals and ability to drive long distances.  A lot of people don't realize how long it takes to drive from Anchorage to Denali.  It's about 5 or 6 hours, by the way, depending on how often you need to find a bush to use the bathroom.  

A rest area near Paxson on the Denali Highway.

Did I mention there are very few rest stops on most Alaska Highways? Please bring toilet paper, and please make it the RV kind that disintegrates if you're not going to take it with you.  I usually pass up the "rest stop" bathrooms for the bush.  Spoiler alert- It's an outhouse.  Some offer scenic views and interpretive signs and the bathrooms are maintained by a local business. Some, are not.  Stuff your pocket full of toilet paper and hike up your pant legs.  I've heard that the shortage of nice toilets is due to permafrost and no running water or electricity.  In any case, you've been warned.  

An old outhouse sits in the background at a private hunting and fishing camp on the Denali Highway.  The Alaska Range is lit by a pink sunset to the north. 

Now I will tell you what I like to do.  Drive to the middle of nowhere, set up camp and listen to the silence.  It doesn't mean I don't love the rail tour or wildlife cruises.  Those are awesome, but also full of people, which I dislike... intensely.  One of my favorite drives are the Edgerton Highway and McCarthy Road.  Edgerton is paved and is located south of  Glennallen off  the Richardson Highway.  The paved portion ends 55 miles later in Chitina, where you can dipnet for Copper River salmon.  The paved section is beautiful and I would recommend it to anyone going that way.  

One of the McCarthy Road views.

Most rental car agencies don't allow driving on gravel roads, so continuing past Chitina is a no-no.  If you aren't restricted by this, then drive to McCarthy.  Well, almost to McCarthy.  The rough McCarthy Road ends at a private bridge after 60 miles.  From here, it's a short walk or a short shuttle ride.  Lodges and other businesses offer a shuttle service once you have crossed the bridge on foot.  Kennicott Glacier and Mine are two of the main attractions.  This area goes through the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve.  It's the largest, most glaciated park in the U.S.  Over 13 million acres and an active volcano make it one of the most unexplored places out there.  Road construction in 2012 apparently greatly improved road conditions and it's fine for passenger cars. 

Another great drive if you have the time or an RV is what I call "The Loop." Anchorage to Fairbanks via the Glenn and Parks Highways, then south on the Richardson to Valdez.  From Valdez, backtrack north to Glennallen and take the Glenn Highway back to Anchorage.   Variations or additions to this trip could include Seward, Kenai or Homer.  The last three locations are not what I consider to be "the road less traveled."  

A fantastic view outside of Fairbanks on the Parks Highway.

Fairbanks offers gold mines, hot springs and the North Pole is nearby.  This is the home of Santa Claus and many people decide to make the trip to Fairbanks just because they have a grandchild or child who will squeal with delight when they receive a personalized letter from Santa himself, postmarked at The Santa Claus House in North Pole.  There are even a few reindeer to feed.  If you aren't particularly interested in driving all the way to Fairbanks for these reasons, take the Denali Highway (gravel road) from Cantwell on the Parks Highway, east to Paxson on the Richardson Highway.

Santa Claus House in North Pole

  

If you want to skip a crowded bus trip but still want a picture of  20,320' Denali, take Petersville Road, south of Denali on the Parks Highway.  It offers beautiful views, though the broad expanses aren't as impressive as taking the ride into the park.  I don't consider Petersville Road to be a replacement for a ride into the park.  I genuinely love Denali National Park and the wildlife is amazing as well as the views.  Just remember that the mountain makes its own weather and your chances of seeing it from anywhere are fairly low.  You won't know until you get there, so plan accordingly.  The best viewing month is probably June.  If you just want to see wildlife, opt for the park bus ride.  The park road is called "Denali Road" or "Denali Park Road" and is not the same as Denali Highway. 

Denali from Petersville Road

A road I have yet to drive is the Dalton Highway, or "Haul Road."  This road is mainly frequented by truckers going to Prudhoe Bay.  I plan on doing this when I have the time and money, hopefully sometime in the next couple summers.  I've always wanted to spend summer solstice above the Arctic Circle.  This is a daunting trip with some rough roadway and close to 24 hours of driving if you are coming from Anchorage.  The most extreme trip I can think of would be driving all these routes.  It gives me goose bumps just thinking about it.  I'll leave you to ponder the distances of some of these trips.

Anchorage to Fairbanks-  360 miles

Fairbanks to Valdez-  365 miles

Valdez to Glennallen-  120 miles

Glennallen to Anchorage-  180 miles.  

Anchorage to Seward-  128 miles

Anchorage to Deadhorse-  852 miles

Sightseeing in Alaska

While sightseeing in Alaska, it's a good idea to take it slow and keep an eye open for wildlife.  During long summers when the sun barely sets, a photographer can snap away well into the night and next day.  The best viewing hours begin at dusk and end at dawn, but in the far north those terms don't really apply.  I've found that 8 to 9pm are good times to start searching the roadsides for a moose or a dozen.  Many areas across the state are well-traveled by the largest ungulate.  They can also weigh 1800 pounds, so keep in mind the damage it will do to an unaware driver.  

Bears have pockets around the state where they can be seen more than others.  Black bears appear frequently in and around Anchorage in the spring.  I've found luck in seeing them in Hatcher Pass, near Palmer.  The Knik River and Glacier area are hot spots when the fish are running.  Valdez has been a great spot for coastal brown bears in recent years.  I had only seen black bears in Valdez until about 4 or 5 years ago when brown bears began showing up to share some pink salmon.  I don't know if this has anything to do with the rehabilitation of Prince William Sound after the oil spill.  I've also seen an increase in bald eagles at Allison Point, where the Alyeska pipeline ends.  Plenty of marine life as well.

Whatever animals you may see, it's important to obey the rules of wildlife photography and viewing etiquette.  Denali National Park strictly enforces wildlife viewing guidelines, and I think it's a good idea to adhere at least loosely to these same guidelines wherever you are.  While traveling through Hatcher Pass state park area, my husband saw a black bear off the road.  We carefully backed up and pulled off the road at a safe distance.  For bears, a safe distance should be far enough away that the bear doesn't acknowledge your presence.  Bears like this sow and cub were probably very hungry.  Hibernation had just ended and the sow was nursing her cub, which was out of sight.  A sound of a car pulling up in front of them made the mother jump up and the cub had to peek out for a look.  A tourist pulled right up to the bears and stopped (also blocking our camera view).  Then a man got out and walked towards them for photos.  The sow sent her cub up a cottonwood and she became defensive.  This ended the whole photo session for everyone not to mention feeding time for the cub.  

This all happened some years ago, but it still bothers me.  I see people do this all the time. A bear is literally starving when it comes out of hibernation and it's important not to disturb its chances at survival.  I recommend getting a camera with telephoto lenses for good wildlife shots.  The best wildlife photographs are taken when an animal isn't aware of us.  When spotting an animal off the road, it's also important to pull over in a safe area and walk back if necessary.  

Though the sun stays out for most of the day, it's also good to have your camera mounted on a tripod while searching for animals at night.  A high sun in the sky can also ruin your shot.  I like to keep a pair of oversized sunglasses on the dash and place them over the lens instead of having to change camera parts.  It's great for the sunsets up here, too.  Snow covered mountains are best when photographed in the morning or evening when shadows are present.  Swamps are a good place to find moose and they don't require as large a viewing distance as bears.  If you're interested in viewing more wildlife and Alaska scenes, you can view my photos here.

Valdez Still Ranks Number 1 With Me

My vacation to Valdez this year was spectacular. One of my favorite little towns in this vast state, I try to go every year to enjoy the Pink Salmon run. Having worked at a visitor center, I would suggest Valdez to anyone traveling in an RV, but never got too much enthusiasm from that person once they heard it would take them at least six hours to drive to this quaint fishing town. Personally, I think a six hour drive is totally worth it, and would try to explain this as I also slipped in the correct pronunciation of the town (Alaskans call it Val-deez, not Val-dez). I would stay strong, raving about the glacier views along the highways, the gorgeous waterfalls in Keystone Canyon, lots of eagles and bears, the Alyeska Pipeline and of course, the destination of Prince William Sound. In the end, most people didn't go, as they had heard so many reviews from friends and relatives about another little Alaskan fishing town, Seward. Even my mother-in-law, after taking her to both destinations, agreed she liked Seward better.

The main thing visitors seem to enjoy about the drive to Seward (drive south from Anchorage) is the rocky coastline along Cook Inlet. There are small waterfalls dotting the landscape, a few glaciers, and the town itself is very well-maintained and also hosts an aquarium with otters, seals, puffins, etc. I admit, I like the town as well, but I never get the feeling I've left civilization when I'm there. I suppose I'm just the type of person who opts to take the road less traveled and socialize with the true Alaskan populace, not the business-owning, busy socialites of Seward. Seward has truly become the visitors' destination, being only a couple hours from Anchorage and consisting of almost nothing but Inns, B&B's, seafood dining, and breath-taking panoramas. The biggest downside for me is the highway which leads to Seward. With so many short trips available to weekend vacationers, locals flock to a dozen different locations along this highway. It leads to Ski Resorts, fishing, wind surfing, hiking, glacier trekking, cruises, whale watching and on and on. Unfortunately, that makes for a dangerously crowded road with a bunch of people going too fast and causing lots of accidents. Traffic regularly gets backed up for hours with fatal accidents. The thought of getting hit by one of these impatient drivers is enough to make me choose Valdez. That, and the fact that I would have to drive through the congested city of Anchorage to get there.

I'm a true Alaskan. I want silence and solitude, a highway where I see another traveler only every half hour, and a town that minds its own business, unless they see you're not catching any fish. In this case they'll be the first to let you know what you're doing wrong.

In the end, both destinations are beautiful, and if you're willing to fly, it's only a 45-60 minute ride to Valdez from the area of Anchorage. Though I personally don't like the drive to Seward, there is another option. In the summer there are fantastic train rides available to Seward, Denali and Fairbanks. If a traveler wants things done for them, it's best to book a package tour or book a train ride, cruise and hotel separately for Seward. Though some things are missed without a package tour option, you still get a little more freedom to wander around. Ultimately, there is no wrong choice when it comes to choosing a vacation destination in Alaska.

Watch my videos of Valdez fishing and bear watching here.